BMW USED CARS

This is the wiring procedure to make your sidemarkers blink. When your parking lights are off, the sidemarkers will blink at the same time as the turn signal. When your lights are on, it will make your sidemarkers blink alternately with your turn signals. Not only does it look cool, but it helps to alert other drivers as to when you are making a turn or lane change. Safe and effective.

Tools Needed:
You'll need a piece of electrical wire (10/15 cm) to serve as a jumper wire.
According to Patrick Farrel, a BMW master tech working at a dealer in MD, you should always use a fused jumper wire.

First, locate de diagnostic socket, at the engine compartment.
There are two different types: up to 1987, it's located near the intake manifold, and has a red cap:

This a quick summary of how to change the batteries for the service interval processor on E30 325's. I don't know how much is different with the 5/7 series, but I have a feeling is basically the same. You can also find an article on this is the November '91 Roundel, but what follows is from my experience.

The processor is on a board mounted in the instrument cluster. The batteries are soldered to the board, and a dealer wants ~$200 because he replaces the whole thing.

When the glove box no longer opens it is time to change the latch. Other accounts on this topic that I have read were a bit vague so I tried to clear up a few things by writing this. The parts for this job should only cost about $20 (or equivalent), this is for the latch mechanism. If you go to the BMW dealer however, they will give you a price for the latch mechanism and opener handle with key, these cost approx. $60, so ask them for just the latch mechanism. I used a second-hand item for now (cost me equivalent of $3), but I would strongly recommend buying new. I got two units but before I even got the job completed the first unit gave up! (I have ordered new part).

Here are the procedures I used to completely flush and refill the cooling system on my car. BMW recommends that this be done every 2 years. I used BMW anti-freeze (at a hefty $14.75 per gallon) as this is highly recommended and I'm not one to be penny wise and pound foolish on these matters.

This information applies to a 1993 325iC E30 with a M20/B25 engine.

Tool's required: a 8mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, a 19mm wrench, a screwdriver, 2 gallons of anti-freeze, and a shallow pan that'll hold at least 4 gallons. (you'll have right much anti-freeze left over. 1 gallon is not _quite_ enough for a 50/50 mix, and 2 gallons is way too much)

jack up the front of the car and set jackstands, or drive up on ramps. You need room to maneuver. Put some newspaper or cardboard under the trans because it will drip ATF.

The trans has a small drain plug at the rear of the pan. Set the drain pan under the plug, open the plug with the hex key and drain the fluid. Now you can drop the pan. Notice there is a tube connected to the front of the pan. This is the fill tube, where the dipstick is. It tries to get in the way when you are replacing the pan; but disconnecting it could be more difficult.

Shahe Bagerdjian When most people look at the E30 BMW family they see heritage. The and racing heritage runs thick through the blood of one particular type of an E30, the M3. The M3 was the most successful touring car ever. The car was practically a factory race car that you could by at your local BMW dealership. The lines of the car are finely drawn; The sculpture of the wide body lures many like a seductive mistress; The overall shape is so aggressive yet so adhesive to ones heart. However the M3 is not all about the looks. The car itself is a unrefined street machine. Built with one purpose in mind, to dominate the touring car circuit. The car standing still looks like a beast in hibernation. Only when the key is turned, the S-14 is revved, and the tires take off spinning, this car comes to life. This is one car that must be drive and driven to the extreme for one to truly understand why this car holds a special place in many peoples’ hearts.

Around July/August of 2001, I decided to attempt the "big six" AFM swap. People often spoke of this swap, but no one that I talked to seemed to have actually done it, or had specific information on what was involved. I decided to go through with the swap, documenting both the procedure as well as the results. This way people would know exactly what is involved in the swap, as well as what they should expect as far as performance gains.